The A To Z Of Anti-Ageing
If you want to age well, you need to be in the know. Here is a glossary of terms used on the website.
Advanced Glycation End-Products (AGEs)
The product of glycation (see glycation). AGEs are proteins or fats that become glycated as a result of exposure to sugar. AGEs cause inflammation and are a factor in ageing and other degenerative conditions such as diabetes, heart disease, and dementia. Because the skin is strengthened by proteins such as collagen and elastin, the effect of AGEs on skin are wrinkles and fine lines, a tired-looking puffy, doughy complexion, and poor tone.
Alpha Lipoic Acid
Alpha-lipoic acid is a potent, fat and water-soluble antioxidant that protects cells, and cell membranes from oxidative stress and damage. It helps maintain the health of the mitochondria so skin cells can perform repair functions.
Amino Acids
The building blocks of protein. Protein is composed of 22 amino acids, all vital for healthy tissue.
Anti-Inflammatory
A substance or chemical that can prevent inflammation.
Antioxidant
Antioxidants are molecules that can safely interact with free radicals and terminate the chain reaction before vital molecules are damaged. To prevent free radical damage, the body has to rely on a defence system involving antioxidants. Examples of Antioxidants are: vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin C, alpha-lipoic acid and selenium.
Aqua
Aqua is quite simply the name that skincare companies give to water. Added to skin creams and moisturisers, water can loosen the skin surface proteins that form a protective layer on the skin, and less protection leads to the skin being more susceptible to damage by free radicals, the sun, bacteria and viruses. That’s why we advocate only oil-based skincare.
Astaxanthin
Astaxanthin is an antioxidant found in marine algae and has been proven in studies to help protect skin from sun damage and reduce the signs of ageing.
Bioidentical Hormone Replacement Therapy
Bioidentical hormone replacement therapy (BHRT) is the use of hormones that are identical on a molecular level with the hormones they are replacing. Unlike HRT (hormone replacement therapy) which are synthetically produced drugs, BHRT are natural and sourced from plants.
Bromelain
Bromelain is an enzyme that aids in healing. Extracts of bromelain have proven to be as effective as some non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs.
Coenzyme Q10
Coenzyme Q10 (Co-Q10) is an important vitamin-like compound that is present throughout the body. It is an important fat-soluble antioxidant that is uniquely able to protect the cells’ energy-producing machinery, the mitochondria, from free radical damage. It is necessary for the production of energy in all cells of the body.
Collagen
Collagen is the major structural protein in the skin. It plays a key role in providing the structure for cells, tissues and organs. Our bodies would fall apart without collagen. It gives the skin its strength and durability, and is responsible for the healthy, supple appearance of young, healthy skin.
DHEA
DHEA is produced in the adrenal glands. It is a weak male hormone and a precursor to some other hormones, including testosterone and oestrogen (pregnenolone is the precursor to DHEA). DHEA dramatically decreases from its peak at age 25–30 until old age when it’s almost non-existent. Studies have linked restoring DHEA to the higher levels of youth to: increased energy; weight maintenance; increased immunity; decrease of excess body fat; reduced low density lipoprotein (LDL) cholesterol; and enhanced muscle mass.
DPA
An Omega 3 essential fatty acid, DHA is a structural fatty acid that has anti-inflammatory functions and can protect against free radical damage.
Elastin
Elastin is a structural protein found in skin that gives the skin its ability to stretch and snap back.
EPA
An Omega 3 essential fatty acid, EPA is vital for memory, mood, concentration and behaviour. It also has anti-inflammatory functions and can protect against free radical damage.
Exfoliation
A process of removing dead skin cells and uncovering fresh new cells below. It stimulates the outer dermal layers to regenerate more quickly, producing a smoother, more even-toned complexion.
Free Radical
Atoms have pairs of electrons, and a free radical is an atom (or groups of atoms) with an odd (unpaired) number of electrons. Free radicals are unstable, and can be formed when oxygen interacts with certain molecules (a process called oxidation). Cells continuously produce free radicals, and a chain reaction of free radical damage eventually kills the cell.
Glycaemic Index (GI)
The glycaemic index (GI) of a food is the speed with which the carbohydrate in the food is broken down and turned into sugar to be released into the bloodstream. Sugary foods have a high GI, but not all starches have a low GI. Some starches (mostly refined ones) are fast burning, so will be broken down into sugar quickly. Others (such as wholegrains) take longer to be broken down, giving you more sustained energy and taming your appetite.
Glycaemic Load (GL)
GI is based upon servings containing 50g of carbohydrate, but often we don’t eat 50g of carbohydrate in a meal. For example, to get 50g of carbohydrate from carrots, you’d have to eat about a 675g (1 ½ lbs) of them! GL takes into consideration a food’s GI as well as the amount of carbohydrates per serving. A carrot has only 4g of carbohydrate; therefore GL is worked out by taking the GI value (92), as a decimal and multiplying it by the actual number of carbohydrates in a serving (4), therefore the GL of carrots is 0.92 x 4 = 3.5.
Glycation
Excessive sugar leads to an oxidative process called glycation, which occurs when glucose (from sugary foods and refined carbohydrates) binds to proteins. These glycated products, termed ‘advanced glycation end-products’ or AGEs for short, literally age you. The affected proteins no longer work properly, degenerate, and lead to ageing. Since collagen is a protein, glycation directly ages the skin.
Hormones
Hormones are powerful chemical messengers secreted by special cells in the endocrine organs into the bloodstream where they target particular organs and other tissues of the body. They are made naturally by the body and keep our bodies working normally.
Inflammation
Inflammation is a process by which the body protects itself from infection and microbes such as bacteria and viruses. Injured tissues become inflamed and results in redness, heat, swelling, pain and loss of function. Stimuli, such as trauma, stress-related events, toxic exposure, allergens and chronic infections activate the inflammatory response. The main pro-inflammatory factors involved in skin ageing are disruption of the skin structure, and UV-A exposure.
Konjac
Konjac is a root high in soluble dietary fibre, and konjac foods such as noodles and pasta, are zero calorie and zero carb foods that can replace carbohydrates in the diet for weight loss and weight management.
Lutein
Lutein is a plant chemical founds in green, leafy vegetables, that has been shown in studies to boost skin hydration and elasticity which helps fight wrinkles.
Lycopene
Lycopene is the pigment that gives tomatoes their distinctive red skins. It has been proven in studies to protect the skin against one of the prime causes of ageing – the sun’s UV rays, and it can also help boost the production of collagen.
Oestrogen
Oestrogen is the primary female sex hormone. It is responsible for the development and regulation of the female reproductive system and secondary sex characteristics. There are three major endogenous oestrogens in females – oestrone, oestradiol, and oestriol.
Oleic Acid
Oleic acid is a fatty acid found in Omega 9 fats such as camellia oil and olive oil, and one of the most powerful anti-inflammatories that nature has provided. Oleic acid helps to keep the cell membrane soft and protects it against the inflammation that causes skin ageing.
OPCs (Oligomeric proanthocyanidin)
Oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs) are found in many woody plants and grapeseeds. OPCs have an affinity for connective tissue components, such as collagen, and studies have shown that OPCs protect against the effects of certain enzymes that ‘digest’ and weaken collagen and elastin.
Papain
Papain is a protein-digesting enzyme. Together with other nutrients such as vitamins C and E, papain helps to reduce inflammation, and improves digestion.
Peptides
Peptides are believed to act by mimicking some of the end-products produced during the breakdown of collagen, and stimulating fibroblast cells to produce new collagen. It is found in anti-ageing skin creams, but the most effective way of increasing the body’s supply of collagen is not by a skin cream, but by diet and supplementation.
Polyphenols
Polyphenols are powerful antioxidants that protect against the free radical damage that causes ageing.
Pregnenolone
Pregnenolone is a hormone naturally produced in the body, made from cholesterol in the adrenal gland. It is the starting material in the production of steroid hormones including testosterone, progesterone, oestrogen, and cortisol.
Progesterone
Progesterone is one of the progesterone steroid hormones. It is secreted by the corpus luteum, a temporary endocrine gland that the female body produces after ovulation during the second half of the menstrual cycle, and prepares the endometrium for the potential of pregnancy after ovulation.
Low progesterone levels can cause various symptoms including sleeplessness, changes in mood, dry skin, joint pain. Progesterone is often prescribed with oestrogen in hormone replacement therapies.
Rebound Exercise
Rebound exercise, or jumping on a quality mini-trampoline, is an effective and efficient form of exercise that strengthens muscle and connective tissue (including collagen), which helps to keep your skin and body firm and tight. It also enhances the lymphatic system, helping remove toxins from the body. Because of the gravitational effects of rebounding, your body responds by becoming stronger and more efficient.
Resistant Starch
Resistant starch is a form of starch that is not digested in the small intestine but passes to the large intestine where it feeds the gut bacteria. It is like soluble fibre. There are four types of resistant starch:
Type 1 – Grains, seeds and pulses, it’s found in their fibrous cell walls.
Type 2 – Starchy foods like raw potatoes and green bananas.
Type 3 – cooked and cooled starchy foods like pasta, rice and potatoes.
Type 4 – man-made from a chemical process.
Retinoids
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives, which are considered to be effective treatments for the signs of skin ageing. Retin-A, or tretinoin, was initially used for the treatment of acne, however users noticed that their skin was also smoother, and fine lines and wrinkles had diminished. Clinical studies confirmed these results and it was made available in prescription-only treatments. Retinyl palmitate is a metabolic precursor of Retin-A, and is available in skincare products without a prescription. It is converted into the active form of Retin-A after it has been absorbed into the skin and is less of an irritant than the much stronger Retin-A (which is not suitable for sensitive skins).
Silica
Silica is the ‘beauty mineral’, and is an essential nutrient for strong and healthy skin, hair and nails. Blood vessels, bone, cartilage, hair, nails and skin are all composed wholly or partially of connective tissue, made up of proteins (e.g. collagen, elastin) and protein-sugar complexes such as chondroitin sulphate. Silica is concentrated in the connective tissue and is thought to play a role in cross-linking connective tissue structures, thereby helping to create their tough, but flexible strength. A lack of silica is known to reduce normal growth and repair of the skin, hair and nails.
Testosterone
Testosterone is the primary male sex hormone and an anabolic steroid. In males it plays a key role in the development of male reproductive, as well as promoting secondary sexual characteristics. Females produce small amounts of testosterone in their ovaries and adrenal glands, and levels drop during menopause and perimenopause. Symptoms of low testosterone in females include lack of energy, increased tiredness, difficulty concentrating, low libido, and headaches.
Tone
Uneven skin tone and dark spots are a sign of ageing, and can make you look older than you actually are. Melanocytes are the cells that produce pigment on our skin. For children and young people, their melanocytes turn on and off evenly when exposed to UV rays. However, after several years of UV exposure, some of these melanocytes remain completely on, producing more and more pigments, causing dark spots.
Trans Fats
Trans fats are found in industrial partially hydrogenated fats, which are vegetable oils such as soy bean or rapeseed oil that have been put through a process called hydrogenation or partial hydrogenation that makes them hard. They are used in fast-food restaurants to deep-fry foods, and also in processed foods as a cheap alternative to butter and to increase shelf-life. Trans fats have been proven to increase LDL cholesterol and increase risk of developing heart disease, type 2 diabetes, stroke, obesity and dementia.
UV-A Rays
We receive UV light from sunlight. UV radiation with a longer wavelength is called UV-A. These longer wavelengths are not considered quite as dangerous as UV-B but cause skin ageing.
UV-B Rays
UV-B waves are the more dangerous UV rays and the vast majority of skin cancers are a result of UV-B.